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Betta Fish Fry Food

Submitted by on 21 November 2010 – 16:57

After Spawning process, next step that is also critical on breeding bettas is raising fry. On this step some factors which most important are keep water in spawning tank on good quality and give proper food for betta fry

This part of the lesson will cover how do we feeding our fry?

On some references said that live foods are the best thing for the nutrition and growth of our fry. They will grow faster and will be more healthy if we use good, nutrious foods. They can eat live foods more easily than some dry or processed foods, and they also appear to find it more interesting. Hunting down those swimming worms and Brine Shrimp give them a great “hunting” experience! The exercise is good for their instincts, in addition to the great nutrition this provides.

Live Foods

  • Infusoria, are only good for a few days in the tank. They might provide a secondary food source for fry who pick at them in the tank though, which is always good.
  • Microworms or Vinegar Eels are the best starter food. We can feed this for up to the first week, and can continue using it for the runts once you move to the next step. You can do this in addition to the infusoria, or you can skip straight to these. Feed MW or VE starting the day the fry are freeswimming. Feed twice a day for several days.
  • Brine Shrimp are the next great choice for fry. They’re highly nutritious and you hatch them yourself so they’re live and very fresh. It’s important to prepare them properly so that you don’t add any, or many, eggshells to the tank. Consumption of eggshells is linked to problems in fry. Frozen BBS may also be fed but they are not as good as the live ones.
  • Daphnia are not the easiest thing to culture and raise but they’re great for small fry when they get a little older. Some daphnia are a lot smaller and some get even big enough for adults!

Non-Live Foods

There are some non-live foods which are great for your fry, when used at the right time. Some breeders will add powdered food to the tank when the fry are first hatched, for example. Small rotifier powder, the smallest size of Golden Pearls, or Mike Reed’s NoBS food are some great appropriate examples. A commercially prepared product which you can purchase that will be suitable is Wardley’s brine shrimp. It can be crushed into a very fine powder between the fingers.

We can change sizes of fry food adjust by our fry grow. We have found the following feeding schedule to work quite well (When to Feed What):

  • Pre-spawning cycled tank, microorganisms present in the established tank for one food source (If these weren’t present I would add infusoria to the tank prior to spawning, and use Liquidfry food)
  • Start adding some Microworm (or Vinegar Eels if you use those instead) the day after the fry are free swimming. You may choose to add just a little bit the first day for the stronger fry to pick at.
  • Keep using the Microworm or Vinegar Eels for about 3 days, supplementing with some type of powdered food, ex: powdered or steamed eggs.
  • Start feeding Brine Shrimp within the first week. (You should see the fry eat these if you watch the tank up close. Very cool, one of my favorite moments.) Continue supplementing the above foods once a day so the runts get food too. Maintain this feeding routine for a couple of weeks.
  • Depending on how fast the fry grow, the next step would be either grindal worms or live daphnia.
  • Continue the above until they’re able to eat chopped frozen or live worms and other things like brine shrimp, bloodworms, black worms, freeze dried worms/etc, or even finely chopped fresh fish.

Supplementing the dry foods seems to help keep the fish off the tank bottom while eating Microworms since it’s surface food, and helps them get used to eating food up there. Tossing these foods into the sponge filter’s bubbles helps to distribute it around in the tank, too.

Some people choose to feed egg yolk to the fry (strained through a cheesecloth, or broken into fine crumbles and mixed with water… added to the tank with an eyedropper…. etc. This could be fed at varying stages. I choose use it occasionally because it can foul the water and how much easier I find other foods. But it’s highly nutritious and would be suitable food.

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